If you’ve returned from a South African safari with a majestic kudu, a sleek springbok, or an imposing Cape buffalo mounted by a skilled taxidermist, you’ll want to keep that trophy looking as stunning as the day you brought it home. Proper care is key to ensuring these prized pieces don’t fade, deteriorate, or lose their lifelike charm. Here’s a comprehensive guide on what to do—and what to avoid—to maintain your South African taxidermy mounts for years to come.
What Is Taxidermy?
Taxidermy is the art of preserving an animal’s body by mounting or stuffing it for display or study. Commonly used for mammals, birds, and fish, it’s a popular way for hunters to commemorate their achievements, like a South African gemsbok or impala. Techniques vary, including traditional skin mounts (where the tanned hide is stretched over a form), reproductions (using artificial materials), and freeze-drying (preserving the specimen without stuffing). For South African trophies, shoulder mounts and full-body displays are especially favored, showcasing the animal’s striking features—like the kudu’s spiral horns or the wildebeest’s rugged mane.
How to Care for Your South African Taxidermy Mounts: The Do’s
Start with Proper Field Care
The journey to a pristine mount begins the moment you harvest your trophy. Handle the animal gently to avoid damaging the hide, fur, or feathers—South African species like nyala and blesbok have delicate hair that’s prone to breakage. Wipe off excess blood with a clean, damp cloth before it dries, and avoid head or neck shots if possible to preserve the cape for mounting.
Prep and Deliver Promptly
If you’re skilled at skinning, cape the animal yourself, leaving ample hide behind the shoulders for a shoulder mount—common for species like impala or gemsbok. If not, leave it to your taxidermist. Contact them immediately after the hunt (keep their number handy!) and deliver the specimen as soon as possible. For delays, freeze the cape and skull in a sealed bag to prevent decay, but only if you can’t get it to the taxidermist quickly.
Communicate Your Vision
Before handing over your trophy, let your taxidermist know your plans—whether it’s a classic shoulder mount for a springbok or a full-body display for a lion. South African mounts often highlight unique features like horns or manes, so clarity ensures the final product matches your expectations.
Display Thoughtfully
Once your mount is complete, place it in a dry, climate-controlled room away from direct sunlight—UV rays can bleach the rich colors of a zebra’s stripes or a sable’s coat. Ideal conditions mimic a museum: stable temperature (around 18-22°C or 65-72°F) and low humidity (below 50%) to prevent mold or cracking.
Dust Regularly
Keep your mount looking fresh with routine dusting. Use a soft, dry microfiber cloth or a feather duster to gently remove dust from the fur, horns, and base. For intricate areas like a kudu’s spiral horns or a buffalo’s textured boss, a small, soft-bristled brush (like a makeup brush) works wonders.
Clean Delicately When Needed
For light soiling, dampen a cloth with water and a drop of mild dish soap (like Dawn), then wipe gently in the direction of the hair—never against it. For glass eyes (common in most mounts), use a cotton swab with a bit of glass cleaner like Windex to restore their shine. Dry thoroughly with a soft towel afterward.
What to Avoid: Common Mistakes with South African Trophies
Don’t Mishandle in the Field
Avoid cutting the throat or windpipe to bleed the animal—it’s unnecessary and risks ruining the cape, especially for delicate species like duiker or steenbok. Dragging the animal across rough terrain can also strip hair from hides like those of the red hartebeest or klipspringer.
Skip Improper Storage
Never store a fresh hide in a plastic bag unless it’s headed for the freezer—trapped moisture breeds bacteria and slippage (hair loss). Instead, hang the salted cape in a well-ventilated area to dry if you’re prepping it for transport from South Africa.
Avoid Harsh Cleaning Methods
Don’t scrub your mount with household cleaners like Pledge, which leave oily residues that attract dust and damage fur over time. Steer clear of soaking it with water or soap—only a professional taxidermist should wash the hair without wetting the hide underneath.
Protect Fragile Features
When dusting or moving your mount, never grab it by the neck or ears—use the horns or antlers as “nature’s handle” (e.g., kudu horns or springbok antlers). Rubbing fur backward or tugging feathers (like on a bird trophy) can break them irreparably.
Keep Away from Pests and Extremes
Don’t let your mount sit in damp basements or hot attics—humidity and temperature swings can warp the hide or invite insects like dermestid beetles, which devour taxidermy. Spray the surrounding area (not the mount itself) with a household insecticide annually to deter pests.
Extra Tips for South African Species
Horns and Antlers: For African game like oryx or eland, avoid oil-based products—unlike North American pronghorn, African horns darken or discolor with oil. Wipe them with a damp cloth instead.
Nose and Lips: If the nose pad (e.g., on a black wildebeest) loses its wet look, apply a clear sealer like Mod Podge with a small brush for a natural shine.
Repairs: For cracked lips or faded eyes on older mounts, consult a professional—DIY fixes with paints or epoxies often worsen the damage.
Conclusion
With the right care, your South African hunting trophies—whether a towering giraffe or a compact steenbok—can remain vibrant and lifelike for decades, preserving the thrill of the hunt. Handle them with care from field to display, dust them regularly, and avoid common pitfalls. Your taxidermy mount isn’t just decor—it’s a testament to your adventure in the wilds of South Africa. Treat it accordingly, and it’ll stay a stunning centerpiece for years to come.
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